Best Countryside Pub Walks in the Yorkshire Dales

Why the Dales Are Made for a Fireside Finish

There is a particular kind of satisfaction in a Yorkshire Dales walk that ends with mud on your boots and a pint on the table. The landscape does the hard work: limestone scars, hay meadows, dark peaty moorland and drystone walls that seem to have grown out of the ground. You do the walking, then you do the eating. The trick is choosing a circular route that is honest about its distance and its stiles, and then timing your arrival so the pub is still serving lunch. These routes are all manageable in a morning or a short afternoon, and each finishes within a few minutes of a warm fireside.

First, the Practical Bits: Map, Boots and Stiles

Dales footpaths are generally well waymarked, but you should still carry a 1:25,000-scale map and know how to read it. Yellow arrows mark public footpaths, blue arrows mark bridleways, and waymarks can be hidden by leaves or faded by weather. Stiles are part of the deal: wooden stiles, stone squeeze stiles, step stiles and kissing gates. Some are narrow, some are high, and a few are awkward for larger dogs or stiff knees. If you are walking with a dog, check the route on the map before you set off, as not every stile has a dog gate.

Paths can be muddy for much of the year, especially in shaded woodland and along field edges. Gaiters and walking poles earn their place. On higher ground, peat bogs can be deeper than they look, so keep to the flagstones or the eroded path where possible. In winter, sections above 400 metres may hold snow or ice long after the valleys have thawed. Always tell someone your route and expected return time, and carry a head torch in autumn and winter.

Malham: Limestone, Waterfalls and a Village Welcome

Malham is the classic starting point for a serious but rewarding circuit. From the village, head north to Janet’s Foss, a small waterfall with a plunge pool that is popular with dippers. Continue to Gordale Scar, where the path squeezes through a dramatic limestone ravine. The climb beside the waterfall is steep and can be slippery, but it opens onto a high limestone plateau. From there, you can cross to Malham Tarn and return via the dry valley of Watlowes, dropping down to the top of Malham Cove. The limestone pavement at the cove is a strange, grippy landscape of clints and grykes, and the view down the valley is one of the finest in the Dales.

The full circuit is around 8 miles and takes four to five hours with stops. It includes steep steps, exposed limestone and a few stiles. The reward is a return to Malham village, where a village inn or two offer a fireside seat, a bowl of soup and a pint of something local. Arrive before 2pm if you want a full menu; after that, you may be limited to crisps and a packet of pork pie.

Wharfedale and Wensleydale: Gentler Circles

For an easier day, try a Wharfedale circuit from Kettlewell. Walk south along the river to Starbotton, then climb gently onto the fellside for views back to Buckden Pike. Return via field paths and a quiet lane. This is around 5 miles, with a few stiles and a couple of short pulls, but no technical ground. Grassington offers another good option: a loop to Linton Falls, through the village of Linton and across fields to Thorpe, returning along the river. It is around 4 miles and ideal for a half-day.

In Wensleydale, a circular walk from Aysgarth to Carperby and back is a fine introduction. You get woodland, riverbank and the chance to see the upper and lower falls without committing to a long moorland crossing. The path is mostly good, with a few stiles and one or two muddy gates. Back in the village, the pub will usually have a fire lit from October onwards, and the lunch menu leans towards pies, sandwiches and soup.

Swaledale: Moorland Edges and a Timeless Village

Swaledale feels wilder and quieter. From Reeth, walk down to Grinton, cross the river and climb onto the lower moor edge. A circular route of about 5 miles can take in old lead mining remains, drystone walls and wide views over the valley. The going is rough in places, with heather, bog and loose stone. Sturdy boots are essential. The return to Reeth brings you to a village green surrounded by inns, where walkers, farmers and cyclists share the bar. It is the kind of place where muddy trousers are not just tolerated but expected.

Ordering Lunch Like a Walker, Not a Tourist

Timing matters. Most Dales pubs serve food from noon until 2pm, sometimes 2.30pm, and Sunday roasts often run out by 1.30pm. If you are a group of more than four, book ahead. If you are muddy, ask whether you should sit in the bar rather than the dining room; many pubs prefer it, and some have a boot room or a drying area. Dogs are usually welcome in the bar, but not always in the restaurant, so ring ahead if your dog is coming.

• Order at the bar and note your table number. Table service is rare on busy weekends.
• Check the specials board for local lamb, Wensleydale cheese, game pie or a proper Yorkshire pudding wrap.
• Ask about portion sizes if you are walking on afterwards. A steak pie with chips and gravy is wonderful, but it is not a light lunch.
• Drink water too. A pint of bitter is a fine reward, but dehydration makes the last mile feel much longer.
• Carry cash for honesty boxes, car parks and the occasional village hall tearoom.

Finally, leave the pub as you found it: boots wiped, dog under control, and a word of thanks to the staff. These walks work because the footpaths are maintained and the pubs are welcoming. Use gates properly, follow the Countryside Code, and take your litter home. Then you can plan the next one, knowing that the fireside will be there when you finish.